- Pilot plan: eyeball navigation, tide/current windows
- Steer downwind, furl head sail.
- Check for trailing lines, sheets, or dinghy painters (tow line) that could foul the prop.
- MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SWIMMERS NEARBY IN THE WATER.
- Engine on.
- Steer head to wind, lower main sail.
- All sheets taught, center traveler, secure main sheet, tidy lines & sails
- Discuss plan. Make sure each crew member (especially Reverie) knows their responsibilities.
- Blow up fenders.
- Hail marina for dock assignment. (Which side tie? Assistance available/needed?)
- Docking plan/contingency plan. How and where is the spring line being attached?
- Place lines & fenders according to dock configuration. Skipper must check and approve.
- Roll up enclosure.
- Check to make sure rail objects (BBQ/Outboard/Anchor) won’t hit pilings.
- Dock the boat.
- Turn off shore power circuit breaker.
- Connect shore power cord.
- Turn on breaker and inverter/charger.
- The “Windlass & Winch” circuit must be on. It will come on with the “Ignition”. There is also push button in the cockpit.
- There is a physical “Emergency Off Windlass Switch” on the anchor locker bulkhead that must be ON. It is there as a way to manually disable the windlass.
- There is a beeping piezo buzzer/alarm that will sound from within the anchor locker if the battery voltage is too low. If supply voltage is below 24v for over 90 seconds the power to the windlass will be interrupted. The batteries must be charged and increase in voltage before you are able to continue. Starting the engine and increasing the RPM will quickly charge the battery.
- Remove hook/clip from chain.
- Plug in chain counter and remote into receptacle near base of stanchon on port side foredeck.
- Test foot push buttons on the foredeck with a quick push/release down/up. The red button is down and the black button is up.
- Check chart or calculate tides depth at low. Minimum 2.4m (8ft) at low when no swell/wake/waves.
- Mark waypoint on MFD when anchor is starting to be dropped.
- Lower anchor until it hits the seabed. The chain tension will reduce slightly and the windlass speed will change. Confirm the sonar depth reading with the amount of chain you think is out.
- The chain is marked every 7-8m (~25 ft). Let out around 4-7x depth at high tide.
- Typically a single nylon snubber line is attached with two rolling hitches to the chain. It runs through a bronze low friction ring that hangs at the tip of the bowsprit on the port side. Then over the port anchor roller and finally made fast with a cleat hitch to one of the cleats. The line should be run to the outboard side of the cleat before making a turn forward.
- Once secure lower an additional 1-3m of chain.
- Slowly increase engine RPM to 2000 in reverse gear to back down on the anchor. Making sure it is set.
- Swim ladder down if anyone is swimming.
- Hoist anchor ball, plug in light into socket within starboard locker at base of mast.
- Attention: Do NOT swim under the keel when checking the anchor in shallow water.
- Close the throttle to slow idle.
- Place the gear shift in neutral.
- Stop the engine by depressing red stop button on Yanmar panel on SB side of cockpit coaming.
- Turn engine panel key to OFF.
- Continue running engine blower for 5 min. (or longer) after engine shutdown to cool down engine compartment and eliminate fumes.
- If the engine is not to be used again for an extended period, the water intake valve should be closed. Place start key around valve. Turn the engine battery switch to OFF.
Stopped & Secure
- Open Hatches
- Center rudder, engage wheel brake
- Shut off instruments (autopilot, GPS, etc) and cover