IMPORTANT CAUTION #1: As the exhaust system relies entirely on the pressure of combustion gas to discharge the cooling water from the muffler through the transom pipe, there is a potential to flood the exhaust system and possibly even the engine cylinders with seawater if the engine starter motor is cranked for more than one minute total time, without the engine actually starting. If the engine fails to start within 30 seconds total and accumulative cranking time— DO NOT CRANK ENGINE ANY FURTHER with sea water intake valve open. SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE MAY RESULT! You may crank the engine with the inlet seacock closed to diagnose the starting problem. Be prepared to quickly open the seacock after the engine starts.
IMPORTANT CAUTION #2: If whenever the engine is being operated and the overheat alarm sounds, or there is no raw cooling water exiting the exhaust pipe at the stern, immediately shut down the engine and investigate. Engine damage will result if ignored.
Furthermore, since the exhaust system is largely water-cooled and non-metallic the excessive heat of un-cooled exhaust gas will melt the muffler and exhaust hoses, resulting in a situation where following seas could potentially enter and flood the yacht through the exhaust pipe.
Always inspect the integrity of the exhaust system after any engine overheat incident, no matter how minor. If you are in a situation where you must have the engine propelling the boat, such as a narrow channel or heavily trafficed area, the safety of your crew and boat must be considered more important than damage to the engine. Every captain must be able to make the correct decision by themselves, neither this manual nor any other advice is capable of covering every contingency.
Please refer to the engine Owner’s Manual for starting procedure and engine panel functions. Thoroughly familiarise yourself with engine shift and throttle controls before attempting to start the engine or get underway.
Note: When a folding propeller is fitted, excessive vibration may occur when the engine is placed in forward gear. This is usually caused by one blade of the propeller not opening. Should this occur, slow the engine to idle, shift into reverse gear and accelerate the engine. Idle the engine and shift to forward gear. This should open the offending blade.
Note: When sailing, it is always advisable to start the engine before the sails are lowered. In this way, it is still possible to manoeuvre if the engine should not start. However pay particular attention to sheets and other lines which may be trailing in the water before operating engine and possibly fouling the propeller. DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH SWIMMERS IN THE WATER OR NEARBY! SERIOUS INJURY CAN RESULT.
All necessary specifications and information concerning the Yanmar engine installed aboard your yacht may be found in the Yanmar Engine Owner’s Manual. Read this manual carefully so that it is thoroughly understood. The life and performance of the engine will depend upon the care it is given.
Remote Yanmar oil and fuel filters mounted forward for easy access (‘14). Engine hoses replaced (’13). Engine room work lights. Heavily insulated engine compartment. Steps and engine room front panel are hinged for easy access.
The RPM sensor creates an AC signal based on the number of teeth. Currently configured for 117 teeth/232 pulses per revolution.
|Type||RPM||GPH||Knots||Range Hr||prop kw/hp||max kw/hp|
|Long-Range Min Cruise||1800||0.49||5.0|
|Long-Range Slow Cruise||1850||0.60||5.3||04.5/06||22.0/29.5|
|Typical Max w/ Alternator||3500||2.6||8.6||32.0/43|
|Continuous (Full Load) Max||3650||2.75||37/50||37.3/50.0|
|1 Hr Rated Max||3800||41/56||55|
|No Load Max||3925|
The following information is available on the NMEA 2000 network.
Replaced every 500 hours.
Two high output alternators are fitted on the engine. The 28v 185 Amp alternator begins charging the house bank above 800 RPM. Currently set for 27.9v.
The reduction gears and reverse gears are contained in the transmission casing attached to the after end of the engine. These gears normally require little maintenance. The gearbox oil should be checked from time to time; see the Engine Owners Manual for the location of the dip stick. To avoid damage to the gears and to increase clutch life, the engine should ALWAYS be at idle speed (<1000 RPM) when shifting gears.
Rebuilt @ 1330 hours in July, 2006 by Mack Boring 508.946-9200
A folding propeller is fitted, it must be recognized that it generally has lower reverse thrust than other types. Plan your docking maneuvers accordingly.
When sailing, it is preferable to lock the propeller shaft to help engage feathering of the propeller by putting the engine in reverse gear after it has been shut off. This will prevent the propeller from rotating or “free-wheeling.” You should not be sailing at a speed of more than two or three knots when you shift into reverse. Sudden reversing of the direction of rotation of the prop shaft puts strain on the transmission, slower is better. The design of the Yanmar transmission is such as to prevent the transmission being shifted back into neutral until the transmission has stopped its rotation.
Pitch is easily adjustable by replacing a single bolt. It can be performed when in the water. Prop is usually slightly over-pitched to maintain higher load on engine during average cruising speeds. It enables more effective motor-sailing. The disadvantage is lower Max RPM and thus lower max power output.
The MAX PROP® EASY allows an angle variation of 2 degree increments in fwd and 4 degree increments in reverse, this corresponds to a variation in the engine RPM of about 13% at the same boat speed. Pitch and rotation of the MAX PROP® EASY can be changed as follows:
On the body of the propeller are two threaded bores, marked with letters “R” and “L”. Replace the “R” bolt for fwd and “L” for reverse. Both the set screw and bolt can be removed by the stainless T-handle tool.
For example inserting the #20 bolt in the forward rotation and 2 in the reverse rotation will provide a 20 degree angle for both front position and reverse rotation. Varying 1 millimeter the length of the bolts, blades inclination has a 2 degrees variation
|Degrees||Fwd Bore||Rev Bore||RPM @ 6kts||Max RPM||In Use|
|19||20 backed out 1||2 backed out 1 notch||2300|
The propeller shaft is supported at the inboard end by the shaft coupling and at the outboard end by the strut which contains a water lubricated bearing (cutless).
The shaft is coarsely aligned at the factory and the boat should not be operated (except briefly and with low engine speed) until a final alignment has been carried out. The propeller shaft and the engine can only be properly aligned after launching. This should be done by your dealer prior to delivery to you. The alignment should be rechecked, at any time if there is excess vibration when the engine is running or if loss of engine speed becomes evident but particularly after a haulout. Improper alignment can cause premature wear of the drive line components. We recommend that a competent professional perform shaft alignment as misalignment can result in expensive repairs.
It is a good idea to do the final shaft alignment AFTER the rig is tuned and with the backstay tension fully relaxed. Backstay tension may affect alignment.
Briefly, alignment is checked in the following manner: a) Remove the flange bolts on the shaft coupling adjacent to the transmission case. b) Support the weight of the shaft and coupling, then slide the coupling faces together by hand. c) While holding the coupling faces together, insert a feeler gauge and check the clearance at four points around the coupling. (3,6,9, & 12 o’clock). There should be no more than .003” variation in the gap between the faces. If the coupling faces are misaligned, the engine mounts can be adjusted until the coupling faces match evenly. Replace and carefully secure flange bolts and locking devices after successfully completing the alignment check. Loc-Tite® nut seal is recommended on coupling and engine mounting nuts as they are subject to severe vibration.
The shaft passes through the hull at the stuffing box which is equipped with a “drip-less” type shaft seal.
The shaft seal is located at the inboard end of the fiberglass tube which passes through the hull. The fiberglass tube and the shaft seal are connected by means of a short length of flexible silicone rubber tubing held in place by hose clamps. These clamps and the stuffing box should be inspected on a regular basis. Replace clamps if any sign of corrosion or rusting is present. If leaking is found, the hose clamps should be checked. NOTE: The rubber tubing and clamps at the stuffing box must be inspected at least yearly.
The exhaust system utilises a waterlift type muffler. In operation, the engine water pump draws water through the sea water intake valve, circulates it through the engine heat exchanger and then injects it into the exhaust elbow. The cooling water mixes with the exhaust gases in the muffler and is discharged overboard by exhaust gas pressures through the exhaust pipe in the stern of the yacht. From the engine exhaust elbow onward the system is water-cooled and constructed of non-metallic, non-corrosive components and should provide you with years of dependable service. However at least semi-annually, inspect the system for leaks and replace any hose clamps that show signs of corrosion.
2 aluminum tanks (314 liters / 83 gallons) and 2 portable plastic (40 liters / 10 gallons) for 354 liters (93 gallons) total.
Two aluminum fuel tanks are located beneath the cabin sole and are static grounded. The fuel tank selector in the engine compartment has dedicated valves for switch over of both feed and return lines. The manifold is located in the engine compartment. Be sure to switch both unless intentionally moving fuel from one tank to the other.
240-33 Ohm Calibration Table
|Alarm||On Liters||Off Liters||Percent|
240-33 Ohm Calibration Table
|Alarm||On Liters||Off Liters||Percent|
Even though your SAGA is equipped with a diesel engine, before opening the fuel inlet deck cap, it is prudent to ensure that all open flames aboard the yacht are extinguished, no person is smoking and that the electrical main switch as well as all electrical circuits are turned to “OFF.” It is good practice to close all ports and hatches adjacent to the fuel fill to keep the diesel fumes out of the cabin. Locate the tank vents and monitor them throughout the fueling operation.
Be careful not to fill tanks at a rate faster than the vents can relieve air pressure in the tank. Fuel docks that seldom have sailboat clients often have higher pressure fuel fills that may cause problems of fuel backing up in the fill pipe. Slow down the fuel flow, or stop fueling if there is any spitting of fuel from the vent or fill pipe. With the tanks located deep in the bilge there is considerable hose length and filling is slow, this is normal. Once the tank has been filled, close the inlet cap tightly and wash down any spills with fresh water and an approved biodegradable oil dispersant.
For specific fuel grades refer to the engine Owner’s Manual. Clean fuel is critical to diesel engine performance and service life. As diesel fuel is stored (in your yacht’s tanks or ashore before you purchase it) water buildup from atmospheric condensation and the growth of micro-organisms are constantly degrading the fuel. Use of secondary fuel filters (such as the Racors) and approved fuel conditioners and biocides (such as RACOR® brand or BIO-BORTM) are recommended. Try to purchase your fuel at high volume locations. In remote cruising locations, or whenever fuel quality is suspect, use of an external flow-through “pre-filter/water separator” (Baja filter) is highly recommended when filling up.
Equipped with a set of RACOR® fuel filter/water separators in addition to the paper element filter supplied by the Yanmar. Consult the RACOR® instructions and the engine owner’s manual for instructions on how and when to service the filters. Be sure to obtain replacement filter elements for the model of filters installed on your SAGA and carry them with you at all times. Filter element life is controlled primarily by the quality of fuel and secondarily by the amount of fuel used. The quality of fuel is often unpredictable. The fuel filter bowl should be checked every day and the paper element after every 50 hours of service. The filter element should be replaced whenever there is visible contamination of the filter surfaces. The filter element should be replaced prior to the start of every sailing season even if they appear to be clean.