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Saga 43 - Hull #39


Keeping a yacht shipshape and in good order, requires maintenance on a regular and frequent basis. The frequency will depend upon the conditions under which the yacht is being used. You must continually check the running and standing rigging, winches, engine, bilge and head as well as surface finishes for signs of deterioration and neglect. Deck hardware should be washed down with fresh water after sailing in salt water. This is particularly true of roller furling gear; and main and jib sheet traveler cars which have ball bearings that should be flushed out with fresh water regularly to operate smoothly. Be careful to use only biodegradable and environmentally friendly products for the maintenance of your yacht, if there is any possibility that any residue might come in contact with the water.

Gelcoat Surfaces

Wash down the gelcoat surface of the hull and the deck regularly with fresh water and a good biodegradable detergent. Do not use abrasive cleaners. A sponge or soft brush should be used on smooth surfaces, while a stiffer brush may be used on the non-skid areas of the deck. Follow by thoroughly rinsing with fresh water.

At least once a year the topsides of the hull should be waxed with a high quality automotive or boat wax, then polished. This will help the gelcoat retain its colour and appearance. Do not wax the non-skid surfaces of the deck.

Minor scratches in gelcoat surfaces can be repaired by rubbing with a light abrasive buffing compound followed by polishing and waxing. Scrapes or damage that has broken through the gelcoat surface can be repaired with the gelcoat repair kit which is provided with your yacht. For major damage, where a large area of the gelcoat has been removed, or where the damage extends into the glass lamination below the gelcoat, consult a qualified marine repair facility.

Gelcoat surfaces below deck should be cleaned with a good detergent and water, then rinsed with fresh water. These surfaces may also be waxed to maintain the appearance. Be careful about applying wax to surfaces that can be walked upon.

The head sinks are fiberglass and should be maintained with the same care as other gelcoat surfaces. Gelcoat surfaces will stain if the yacht is moored where tree leaves may fall on deck or in areas where birds roost. Under these conditions, surfaces should be scrubbed down frequently. A protective cover will offer protection and reduce maintenance.

Windows and Hatches

Windows and hatches of your yacht are glazed with acrylic which is impact-resistant and very durable. However, the surface of the acrylic is not abrasion resistant, and therefore, gritty cleaning agents should never be used on them. Clean the ports with mild soap and water. DO NOT USE AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS. They can “cloud” acrylic. If the ports require polishing, acrylic polish is available from most major hardware dealers. Rinse afterward with mild soap and water.

As time goes on, the neoprene seal in the hatches will compress and the hatch may begin to leak. This may be corrected by adjusting the handle assemblies. The life of the seals will be prolonged if regularly cleaned of salt residue and treated with Armor-All® or a similar product. Eventually the seals on the hatches may need replacing.

NOTE: Never apply undue force to a hatch when closing. Do not allow a hatch to fall back to an unsupported position as the leverage could shear the hinge lugs.

COMPLETELY CLOSE FORWARD HATCHES WHENEVER SAILING. JIB SHEETS CAN BE CAUGHT IN AN OPEN OR PARTIALLY OPEN HATCH WHEN MANOEUVERING UNDER SAIL. THIS MAY SEVERELY DAMAGE THE HATCH. 11-3 Hull below the Waterline The gelcoat used on your SAGA Yacht is premium grade ISO-NPG polyester resin gelcoat. The gelcoat is further backed up by several laminates of vinylester resin. This combination has proven to be highly blister resistant. The use of an epoxy-type undercoating is not necessary or recommended. There is little evidence that these types of coatings actually increase blistering resistance. In fact, blistering of the applied coating itself or adhesion failure of the barrier coating may be far more likely to occur than blistering of the ISO-NPG gelcoat. The effectiveness of gelcoat can be seriously damaged by improper application of antifouling and barrier coatings. The hardest, densest, and most impervious part of the hull structure is the very outer surface of the gelcoat. (only several molecules deepJAny aggressive sanding of the surface, or use of strong paint stripping chemicals or primers which are designed to act by way of softening the gelcoat surface will seriously reduce the long term blister resistance of the hull. 11-3a Application of antifouling on bare hull: Because this initial coating serves as the foundation for subsequent seasonal applications of bottom paint, it is extremely important that the coatings be the best quality and that they be applied carefully and strictly according to their manufacturer’s instructions. Thereafter, the routine maintenance of the bottom will be much easier with the best possible results. 1*9 Wj ps 03?) NOTE: The following instructions dictate the use of, and exposure to, potentially dangerous chemicals which may be harmful to you, your health, and the environment if not used carefully. They are best handled by a skilled professional. If you are attempting a “do-it-yourself job, please carefully read all product information, health warnings and cautions supplied by the manufacturer before beginning.

  1. Wash off all road grime that may be left on the hull from trucking with a strong grease-cutting detergent such as 409® or Simple Green®. Then thoroughly remove all wax from hull surface below the waterline with INTERLUX 202® solvent wash, using lots of fresh clean rags (discard rags only in an approved manner, spontaneous combustion and/or health and environmental damage can result). Do not skimp on this step.
  2. The bottom should be lightly sanded with a “DA” type sander using 120 paper. The gelcoat must not be aggressively sanded with belt sanders or disc grinders as they offer little control and the gelcoat can be quickly damaged. Any sanding that cuts through the gelcoat to the laminate below will void the hull blistering warranty policy.
  3. Mask hull at waterline. Apply INTERLUX AL 200® primer according to manufacturers instructions. (Note: the window of time AL 200 primer is allowed to dry before application of antifouling is critical to adhesion quality.)
  4. Apply two or three coats of a premium quality hard finish antifouling paint. Epoxy based paints such as Interlux Super Bottomkote® or Woolsey Supertox® make a fine base for future coats to be applied in subsequent seasons. The frequency and amount of maintenance required on the bottom is governed by the nature of the water in which the yacht is kept, and to some extent, by the use it gets. If the waters are polluted or are conducive to marine growth, it may be necessary to have the bottom cleaned one or more times during the sailing season by a bottom cleaning service. If for any reason the yacht is hauled and it is planned to keep it out of the water for any length of time, the bottom should be scrubbed down immediately before any marine growth dries and hardens upon the bottom. You may lightly sand old antifouling prior to a fresh new coat each season, but avoid sanding down to bare gelcoat.


11-4 Cove Stripe fi The cove stripe (just below the deck line) and SAGA logos are coloured mylar tape. The cove stripe may be cleaned by using mild detergent solution. The mylar tape and logo, if needing replacement, can be purchased through your SAGA Yachts Dealer. Be very careful when using power buffers and polishers on the hull not to run across the cove stripe. The mylar can be smeared or burned by power buffers. f$m\

11-5 Vinyl Rub Rail The vinyl rub rail is located along the gunwale where the deck is attached to the hull. This rub rail may be cleaned using detergent and water. If hard to remove stains are found, a good quality marine cleaner, formulated for vinyl may be ’ required.” Armor-All®” or a similar product is excellent treatment for the vinyl. It leaves a shine and protects it from the UV and the elements. 11-6 Standing Rigging _ Standing rigging is defined as those fixed parts of the rigging which support the 1 mast. The standing rigging should be visually checked each time before going sailing and given a detailed examination semi annually. turnbuckles should be inspected to make sure that cotter pins are in place at top and bottom, that cotter pin ends are turned back carefully and that they are covered with plastic tape. Each spreader should be checked that the pins are properly in place and to m ensure that the spreader is not out of alignment. The end of the spreader where the shroud passes through should be padded with a piece of foam and taped over or leathered to prevent chafing sails. 1X19 wire rigging should be checked for broken, protruding strands. Check also for any signs of rust on wire rigging. A good practice is to paint a small white ring around the wire where it enters the terminal. The paint will show if any ’ slippage occurs and will prevent salt from collecting in the minute spaces between the strands which will induce corrosion. Examine carefully where the T wire enters the terminal end fitting for signs of rust or wear since this is a ’ particularly vulnerable point when the yacht is sailed in salt water. Rod rigging if fitted should be examined for nicks or kinks and any signs of fatigue where the rod enters the terminal end fitting. If a potential problem is found, consult your * SAGA Marine Dealer or a professional rigger. _ 11-7 Running Rigging Running rigging consists of the lines that are normally used in handling and trimming sails such as sheets, guys, halyards and vangs. Main and Genoa halyards are subject to heavy loading and constant flexing as they pass over the sheaves at the head of the mast and turning blocks at the foot of the mast. Over a period of time, the constant flexing and exposure to weather tends to fatigue ’ the material. Halyards should be examined regularly for signs of stress, chafe or wear. When such signs appear, the halyard should be replaced. The main halyard shackle should be checked each time the yacht is sailed to ensure it 1 closes and locks smoothly and securely. The shackle’s eye splice should also be checked with each sail. The genoa and jib should be lowered two or three times per sailing season in order to inspect their respective halyards. The > headsail halyard shackles require seizing to ensure accidental opening. Rope sheets tend to fray over a period of time and they are also affected by T sunlight; this causes a reduction in strength. Sheets should be replaced when * any strand of the outer layer of braid is broken. To minimise the chance of damaged jib/genoa sheets, be aware of potential chafe points when sailing and T cover all sharp edges with rigging tape. Thoroughly rinse the sheets with fresh water after salt water sails as the salt crystals will abrade the fibers over time.

During winter storage, remove all lines from the boat and store in a dry place. Dacron lines may be washed in your home washing machine by placing them in a pillow case or string bag, using cold water on “Gentle” cycle and hanging to dry. DO NOT dry them in your clothes dryer. Replace your rope halyards with light messenger cord when storing your boat during the winter months. This applies even when the mast is removed from the boat for separate, covered storage. 11-8 Lifelines, Pulpits and Stanchions Lifelines, like standing rigging, should receive regular, periodic inspections. The terminal ends at the turnbuckles must be well screwed into the barrel in order that all the threads of barrel are fully engaged. Any lock nuts must be done up tightly and use of ‘Loc-Tite®” is recommended. All clevis pins should be secured with correct size cotter pins and taped over to prevent damage to sails or personal injury: NOTE: the vendors of lifeline parts often supply clevis pins with “ring-dings.” For added security, SAGA Marine recommends that cotter pins be substituted for ring-dings in lifeline components. Tape over all sharp edges for safety.

r consult with a skilled rigger or replace immediately. fiW Check pulpits, stanchions, and stanchion bases for dents or cracks. Ensure that they are properly secured to their bases. A slight “wobble” in the stanchion caused by clearance in the stanchion base is normal and desirable. The clearance is manufacturing tolerance designed to reduce the possibility of crevice corrosion (and eventual seizing) between the cast aluminum base housing and the stainless steel stanchion. When washing down the boat be sure to flush out stanchion bases with fresh water to wash out any salt which hastens corrosion. Don’t allow crew to sit or stand on the lifelines at any time. 11-9 Winches and Blocks Most problems which develop in winches are due to insufficient or improper maintenance. Consult your winch manufacturer’s owner’s manual. With continuous sailing in salt water, winches should be stripped down, cleaned and lubricated once a month. In fresh water areas this maintenance procedure should be performed at least twice each season. The bolts securing the winches should be checked at least once each season. Bolts securing the winches on the coach roof may be checked by removing the access covers located in the head liner of the aft cabin and by removing the microwave oven in the galley. If it is necessary to remove a winch base and remove the bolts, the bolts should be resealed with polysulfide marine sealant. Check the swaged ends of lifeline wires for signs of rust. Inspect swage fittings with a magnifying glass for cracks at least semi annually. Cracks are a sign of internal crevice corrosion and may not be easily visible. If cracks are present | Blocks normally require little maintenance, but they should be examined i regularly for damage, particularly at the shackle connection. Never leave a snatch block open, and be sure the latch is properly closed before applying load so that the cheek of the block will not be bent. We recommend flushing out ball bearing blocks with fresh water after each use. Sheaves and blocks can be sprayed with a DRY silicone or DRY Teflon® lubricant to keep them running freely.(lubricants which attract dirt should not be used}. The sheaves at the head of the mast should be checked before the spar goes into the yacht at commissioning. The sheaves for the main and genoa halyards have oil-lite bronze bushings and normally do not require lubrication, but once each season, a few drops of light machine oil will be adequate. All running rigging should be washed down with fresh water after sailing in salt water.

11-10 Engine

The maintenance of your engine is covered in the engine manufacturer’s Owner’s Manual which should be read carefully. ] 11-11 Power Train Details of shaft alignment and maintenance of the stuffing box are given in * Section 5. I 11-12 Electrical The electrical wiring should require little or no maintenance. Exposed terminals and connections should be checked several times each season, more frequently in salt water environment. Check for looseness of the connections, tighten as needed, and the presence of any corrosion on the terminals or connecting posts. Connections may be protected with a light application of an appropriate spray coating obtainable from an electronics parts supplier. “Clean, Dry, Tight” are the three most important factors in battery and electrical maintenance.

11-13 Upholstery

The cushions and seat backs on your SAGA Yacht are covered with stain- I resistant fabric which is easy to care for. It is important that the upholstery be kept aired and that it be dried after use to prevent mold development. If the yacht is to be left unused for prolonged periods, it is advisable to stand the 3 cushions on end so that air can circulate around them. It is also advisable at such times to clean out all lockers, removing all dampness and leaving locker doors open. During winter storage, we recommend that you remove the cushions * from the boat and store them in a clean, dry area.

11-14 Steering

The manufacturer’s instructions for maintaining your pedestal steering system should be followed closely. Your SAGA Yacht has Whitlock rod steering.

The roller bearings in the pedestal were lubricated by the manufacturer during assembly. After each season, apply lubrication in the holes provided on top of each bearing. Do not over lubricate as it will affect the brake pads. Check periodically to prevent the bearings running dry and lubricate following the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Lightly oil the roller chain every two months with machine oil. Oil the sheave bearings in the holes provided, four times each season.

Inspect and lightly oil the cables in the system. The manufacturer recommends placing about five layers of facial tissue in the palm of your gloved hand, applying oil to the tissues and lightly rubbing the wire. This will lubricate the strands and “flag” a broken or hooked strand by tearing the tissue. If there is a break in the wire, replace it immediately. Cover your hand with a thick leather i glove to prevent injury during this check.

In the event of a failure in the pedestal steering system, such as a loss of a cable, there is an emergency tiller supplied with your yacht. (The optional electronic autopilot is connected to the rudder post with a separate steering arm from the pedestal and in most cases will steer the yacht in the event of a failure in the pedestal. The emergency tiller connects directly to the rudder post without tools. To install, remove the cover plate at the rear of the cockpit and inset tiller. Steering will be less cumbersome if you then remove the steering wheel (be careful that you do not lose the metal shaft key when you take off the wheel). Lines can be attached to the tiller and run outboard to assist in steering.

The Whitlock steering system needs little maintenance other than periodic inspection of the ball joints to ensure the connecting bolts are secure. The underside of the steering pedestal should be inspected for evidence of water leaks. The complete system, including attaching bolts should be inspected each season.

11-15 Deck Fittings

Any deck fitting which is under load (chain plates, genoa tracks, line stoppers, etc.) should be checked on a regular basis and re-bedded with marine sealant if found to be leaking. The chainplates are fitted with an “escutcheon plate” which retains the caulk between the deck and chainplate.

The highly loaded chainplate moves minutely during normal use. Eventually the caulk seal with the chainplate will be lost and some leaking will occur. This is particularly true during the first months of use as the chainplates “bed-in” during initial use. Should a leak occur, remove the escutcheon plate by backing out the fixing screws on deck and lift as high as tumbuckle above it allows. Clean out the old caulking with a penknife, wipe area with mineral spirits and apply a bead of polysulfide caulk (LifeCaulk®) beneath the escutcheon plate along both sides of the chainplate. Gently lower the escutcheon plate and fit the screws. Do not fully tighten the screws as this will squeeze out the caulking, (leave an 1/8 turn) Clean up excess caulk with mineral spirits.

11-16 Roller Furling

The bearings in your roller furling gear need no lubrication. They should be regularly flushed out with fresh water and mild detergent to remove salt and dirt. Lower the sails frequently and flush out both lower unit and top swivel. An amazing amount of salt (and bird droppings) can accumulate in the bearings of the top swivel. Dry lubricants which do not attract dirt may be used. Foils may be sprayed with dry silicone to ease raising and lowering sails. Inspect swage fittings, shackles, and the lower tumbuckle assembly for signs of corrosion or fatigue at least twice a season.

11-17 Keel Bolt Torque

It is recommended the keel bolts be retorqued before each sailing season begins. Contact our service department for torque specifications.

Since the keel is attached to the hull with mechanical fastenings (bolts), and due to loads imposed upon the keel during sailing, it is not unusual to see a line of separation at the keel/hull joint after the boat has been hauled.